Science Says Linen Is the Coolest Fabric—But Can It Look Cool?

Artist Anne Weyant in New York wearing a complete linen outfit.

It’s perennially summer for us. It’s hot. You’re sweating. I’m sweating. We’re all perspiring in one big, hot bubble of heat together. But despite the supermodel appeal of the skimpy cotton tank top, lighter-feeling materials and large amounts of exposed skin don’t necessarily mean you’ll feel cooler. The strategy to beat when it comes to staying sweat-free is linen. After all, the material has been used for that purpose since ancient times. “Linen fabrics have been reported ever since humans learned to make fabrics, and from many civilizations,” says Margaret Frey, professor of fiber science and apparel design at Cornell University. “Linen is harvested from the stalk flax plant, which grows in cooler climates than cotton and is robust against insects and drought and is also quite beautiful.” Fun fact: In 2009, a team of archeologists discovered flax seeds over 36,000 years old that were used to make linen in a cave in the country of Georgia.

There’s a reason why linen has been worn for millennia: It’s scientifically proven to be a cooler fabric than cotton or silk. Silk retains heat, while cotton tends to fall closely to the body, meaning you’re in for a sweaty day if you choose either. “Linen is a comfortable material for summer because of its high moisture absorptivity and relative stiffness,” writes Jintu Fan, professor of fiber science and apparel design at Cornell University. “The former property absorbs sweat and the latter property makes it detached from human skin, creating spaces between human body and clothing for ventilative cooling.”

“What I love about it, it’s not just cool, it’s really unbelievably cool. It is so durable, and it can either be fresh and crisp or rumpled up,” she says. “Personally, I don’t like air-conditioning. I like the heat, but I like to be cool in the heat and don’t like anything that sticks to me. I like the easy styles and that sort of billowy quality that it has.” Staying comfortable in summer without frigid A/C? Now that’s cool.

Adapted from Vogue.com